The Paths of History

Boys and girls alike grow up piecing together a history of violence with their plastic people. Barbies and little green soldiers, armed with plastic spoons and their fathers watch, fight the battles their great grandparents lived with near harmless tumbles and no actual shrapnel. I watch my children play and I feel in constant awe that almost anywhere we put our feet here was once a war zone.

For me it was different, although I cannot say I walked up hill to school in the scolding arctic winds I will say that the clues of what had transpired in the near past seemed to seek my hands as a child. Angaur Island had been the scene of much bloodshed during World War II and the relics of these events rested under the thin layers of phosphate and soil waiting to be remembered. Even my grandmother's stories were those of her life during the war, there was no time for fairy tales when so much history was waiting to be told. In the backyard of my family home, which had once been a hospital, I found the vials that had once held medicine, shell casings, grenades and other relics. There were never many sleep overs at my house as a child because the whole town believed that our house was haunted. Maybe it was, I never met anyone I could see through.

In 1999 my mother came home from the mesei (a traditional wetland area for cultivating taro) with a weathered steel canteen in her basket, she had effectively harvested history. I noticed two names, a man's and a woman's, scratched into the canteen as well as an address in Wisconsin, I decided to look them up as soon as I could, wondering if it were possible that the man had survived the war. Perhaps he would want this link to his past returned. I wrote the man a letter and was surprised when he responded, I could still talk to the past, these pieces of the puzzle I picked up now had voices. The man lived not far from the address he had scratched into the canteen and had even married the woman whose name, scratched then so long before their uncertain union, remained preserved as a love letter encased in mud for five decades. I mailed the canteen back and the man sent me the article from his home town paper, we are all so surprised at the connections that have been made. The man was a marine during the invasion of Peleliu and so we have no clue how his personal effects ended up 7 miles away in Angaur, that is a question not easily answered. I continued to follow this thread, when my family took a road trip across the U.S. I wrote and asked if we could visit. Soon my history lesson went from a mere phantom possibility to having a face and a home which I would find myself visiting, albeit under less dire circumstances than the man's visit to my country.

When we crossed the threshold of the man's home, my family and I were traveling back in time, finding ourselves that much closer to the stories echoed by our elders. We were meeting this marine and seeing the samurai sword he had carried home with him, a souvenir of his journey we had the privilege of encountering. Everything was kept in the basement, away from prying eyes, underground available only to those willing to dig.It was heavy, heavier than I had expected and when I held it in my hand I found myself surprised at the lack of tarnish, how little had eroded away. I am referring to both the sword and the connection we had made. We spoke only superficially about his role in the war, i enjoyed hearing tales of a airplane drop tank converted into a boat for exploring the ocean. There were moments like these that must have displaced the drudgery of the marine's mission to win. Seeing his commander take a shot to the head just inches away seemed always to be buried below the surface, it was only later when I read an historical account of this incident (the man never wished to discuss these matters with me, I respected his privacy) that had been published in a book that I realized how he must have suffered.

While the man had travelled already, his history in Palau long finished except for this final thread, the canteen, which now rested in a box of photos and other memories, many he may have wished to forget, in a box in the basement. Later his daughters wrote me, saying indeed I had unearthed something in their father and memories once entombed now emerged. I had kicked the dust off of something, as I often do on Angaur, and found a larger story lies underneath.

These are a few of our favorite things

                                                              Mocha at Okeanos





Welcome to our new holiday tradition: The Ungil Sils annual top three best of Palau list! We are not just service providers here, we are consumers. Yup, that is the spirit of the holidays, spend thy money. We are fast approaching the busy season here and we wanted to let you know what we have loved this year.


Top 3 places to get a massage (minus being offered a little extra....):


1. Melusch a Dil: locally owned and affordable (just like us!) massage in a clean and professional environment. If you are local the going rate for a massage is $20 for an hour, haircuts are $5 and they have a fun car chair for nervous kids.
2. TSP: This is the only place to go if you have truly twisted your spine. Torsten is a German physical therapist who does not so much provide a relaxing massage but he can put your body back into alignment, plus he is a witty guy. This does not come cheap, however, be prepared for the sixty dollar an hour charge!
3. Mandara: this chain spa operates out of two large luxury hotels, Palau Pacific Resort and Palau Royal resort, prices are sky high but the service is clean, friendly and respectable.....plus you get to drink tasty ginger tea before your treatment.


Top 3 Places to hang out your kids:

1. The new park under the KB bridge: this is a pretty great new addition to Palau, it is really the only outdoor park where every moment does not present a dire risk of tetanus. There is a sink outside for messes, small swimming hole and a brand new park courtesy of the Republic of Taiwan! They also have wireless for the parents of kids older than mine who are allowed to sit down....bring sunscreen and skip it if the weather is bad because the area is open to the elements.

2. The aquarium: the fish will momentarily distract from all worldly troubles, a good rainy day activity for all ages.

3. The kids room at Palau Royal Resort: It is hot out, you are desperate for air conditioning you would cry if your fairy godmother said "for ten dollars a kid you can play in an air conditioned padded room filled with colorful balls. Oh, and kids under six are free!" Go there. It is not a mirage. The front desk may try and confuse you, explain that you know the pool fee covers the game room and you will not be bamboozled. Also, we advise that you do not eat the buffet there, we think that this can be summarized in one appetizer: hot dogs and melon in a shot glass......



Top 3 places for a sunset picnic:

1. Palau Pacific Resort nature trail summer house: Try not to make eye contact with the security guard as you drive in to make use of the PPR nature trail (they occasionally will have you check in at the front desk before proceeding) and park near the managers apartments and head up the steep road to the summer house. The trail takes about thirty minutes total, bring a flashlight if you are a slow walker! On the way down you will end up at the poor man's beach after making your way through a very eerie tunnel of bamboo. We always enjoy trying to guess what the resort keeps in the air conditioned containers that are trailside on the way out....

2. Ulong island: A relatively short 14 mile trip from dock to destination this rock island with its expansive view reminds us that sunset is the perfect time to be in awe. You can see the 70 islands that so many tourists mistakenly believe they will be touring and the cluster of rocks concealing the jellyfish lake, the full tilt boat ride back at dusk is a fine time to take in all these treasures.

3. Angaur Island: Seeking adventure? Get yourself a tent and brave the 4 hour state boat ride to my home island. The only place you can surf a good sized wave while listening to the crazed shrieks of invasive macaque monkeys in the background. I would recommend camping along the shore, just wear some salt water crocodile repellent.....oh, that doesn't exist yet....hmmm.



Top 3 places to go have a beer: (if we had a babysitter we would join you!)

1. Red Rooster Brewery at Palm Bay: Clean taps, frosted mugs and $8 dollar pitchers every friday night, try the only local brewery! Delicious beer, especially the Wheat beer.

2. Kramers: This place has character, run by eccentric German expat Rene (do not ask about his recent boat trip to the Phillipines....) and lovely wife Jane you will surely be entertained should you find yourself drinking there in this seedy corner of Malakal.

3. Mingles: Although we do not go there much this place has established itself as the glittery intoxicated go go dancer of the downtown area. There is an open balcony where you can smoke or angrily throw your sworn enemy to the pavement below. We do not advise this, but it has happened.....


Top 3 places to drink a decent coffee:

1. Okeanos: We are pretty serious about our coffee (that is pretty much all we get serious about, the wife is a former Starbucks employee and the best coffee around is actually made in my kitchen) so when we went in and noticed the espresso machine of a value that exceeded all of our family cars combined, we were hopeful. This is the best place to get a quality hot espresso beverage, owned by Fish n' Fins and serving LaVazza brand beans this is a winning cup of joe.....and for over five bucks a cup it damn well better be! We are sad to report that this fine establishment does not open its doors until after ten in the morning, this is a thing here, coffee shops that open past proper coffee consumption hours.

2. Lius: On the days where the sun is of such an intensity that you are marinating in your own sweat just typing your blog (Today! Please, if you are reading this send iced coffee!) you may want to ice your energy drink. Lius is a newly established shop in the Rur/Rock Island tour conglomerate whose in house roasted beans are quite drinkable. We advise that you do not buy your drinking coconuts (mengur, in Palauan) there due to the hefty four dollar price tag....if you like coconut go to one of the small stores and get yourself one for just over a dollar.

3. Coffee Berry: This is owned by Hana Tours (we swear they own most of Koror at this point) and also boasts LaVazza beans, if you need your fix in the morning this is the only place open that makes the fancy stuff. (beware the times when they are dropping off a whole bus load of people there.....this place boasts free wi-fi but the connection speed is snail pace.


Top 2 places to surf the bandwidth:

 1. The park under KB bridge: It is strangely amusing to be surfing the information superhighway while perfecting your tan....you will need a PNCC internet card.

2. Okeanos: This place is almost never crowded and when it is it tends to be love birds gazing into each others eyes. More bandwidth for you. Be the loner with a drink and a gadget. Buy yourself a PNCC wireless card before you get there in case they are out. If you get your card there make sure you bring cash, they do not accept credit for internet card purchases.

3.   We would love to hear your suggestions on this, we are really can't think of a third location!


Top place to eat some fish:

 Drop Off Bar and Grill: Owned by Palau's most beloved millionaire fisherman, Shallum Etpison, this is fish done by Palauans for everyone. We love the variety of fish available on the menu including Snapper, Blue Fin and Mahi Mahi. Also, a mighty tasty burger is served here.



Top 3 places to buy actual locally made gifts:

1. Belau National Museum: The museum truly supports local artists and keeps the importing of outside made souvenirs to a minimum. Locally made jewelry and Pandanus crafts are available at reasonable prices. We also love the pottery, story boards and tools for local food preparation.

2. Island Navigator Gifts: We like to support this place because it boasts local ownership, which is a rarity, and a prime location on the downtown strip.

3. The Prison Gift Shop: If you can get past the smell of urine(no seriously) I doubt that any organization needs your money to make improvements more than the prison. Recently uncovered as a violator of pretty much every basic human right, they are finally beginning the process of making their solitary confinement less like a form of slow death. Besides, nothing says I love you like a pair of turtle shell earrings carved by a heinous criminal. Stay local folks.



Best NEW restaurant:

over the past six months we have seen what qualifies as our downtown turn in to a strange glow of Chinese characters that are the new gift and dining locations introduced from overseas. We would like to point you in the direction of something that is NOT shiny but is delicious (not BurgerSea....) if you love Thai food try Jasmine Thai, located above the sparkling 'Seafood Ramen House' across from the local monolith of Surangel you will find, up a set of steep metal stairs that are reminiscent of boarding a ship, a local Thai woman who has established her own eatery. You will not even notice the lack of decor as you try to people watch through the heavily tinted windows to see what the people who eat at the shiny places are doing. P.S. We drank an iced coffee after five pm and did not sleep until the next day, if you need to go turbo try the iced coffee!